A huggie earring in blackened 925 silver with a natural green tourmaline: the hoop sits close on the lobe, a tube with an angled cut hangs below it, and the crystal comes out of the cut. Weight 2.5 g, size S — the smallest in the model. Family AMULET, model Classic (E-0530).
Material: 925 sterling silver, hand-finished.
Family AMULET, model Classic (E-0530), world RITUAL.
Stone: natural green tourmaline (verdelite), uncut, pleochroic — held in the open cut of the tube, no facets and no prongs; each stone is unique.
Surface: black oxidation — the silver was darkened in advance, at the bench. This is a technique, not patina from time: the tone is here from day one.
Care: a soft dry cloth. Silver-cleaning solutions and abrasives strip the blackening; ultrasonic baths are not for the stone.
The form of model E-0530 is a straight tube cut at an angle. The cut is what does the work: it opens the cylinder and lets the stone show without letting it out. Nothing is placed inside — the stone itself fills the volume.
The hoop is small and sits close around the lobe — a huggie. The tube hangs from it on a connecting ring, below the lobe; the crystal comes out of the cut. The STRUGA mark is stamped on the side of the tube and on the hoop. The earring is worn singly, in one ear. On the ear it reads as a dark vertical with a green stroke at the bottom.
The stone is verdelite, green tourmaline: a boron silicate coloured by iron. The crystal is pleochroic, and the green reads differently from two angles — from one side cooler and darker, from the other closer to olive. That is its geology, not a promise.
925 silver is 92.5% pure silver. Here it was darkened in advance, by controlled oxidation: the piece is dark from the first day. The edges of the cut stay light, friction lightens the raised ribs, and if the blackening wears off it is applied again. Within the model this surface is the minority: the archive holds 13 light pieces against 5 darkened ones.
How it is made: the form is modelled — in 3D or by hand in wax. A silicone mould is taken from the wax model and the silver is cast. The finished earring is worked by hand, the surface is darkened, and the stone is fitted into the cut one piece at a time — which is why every amulet is the only one.
How this amulet differs from the ones beside it
| |
Classic S — this one |
Thorn S |
| Drop form |
tube with an angled cut |
torpedo cut in half |
| Weight |
2.5 g |
3.5–3.9 g |
| Stone |
comes out of the cut |
grown inside the split |
Within the Classic model the size decides how much of the stone shows: S weighs 2.5 g and sits close to the ear, M is 3.0–3.9 g and reads at conversation distance, L is 4.2–5.5 g and appears only twice in the archive. Both models are open in the stone — tourmaline, aquamarine, quartz and others; only the form repeats. Classic is the restrained one, Thorn the expressive one. What the model has already been is shown by the E-0530 archive.
Who it is for, and when it is worn
Size S is the most compact in the model: 2.5 g sit close to the ear and do not pull on the lobe, so the earring is worn every day and kept on at night. The hoop closes on a hinge and holds firmly.
The blackened surface does not catch the light: at conversation distance it is a dark vertical, and the green shows only up close. This is the earring for a single quiet accent rather than a visible piece.
It is a single earring, so it works on its own and in an asymmetric set — the other ear takes an empty hoop or nothing. The form is neutral: it is worn by men and women alike. As a gift, an amulet is chosen when the point is the particular stone rather than the category: there is no second one like it, and that needs no explaining.
About STRUGA. STRUGA is a dark silver jewelry brand founded by Dmitry Strugovshchikov and Ekaterina Strugovshchikova, handcrafted in the Bali workshop by master silversmiths. Every piece is 925 sterling silver, naturally oxidized or hand-patinated. The darkening is part of the design. It is a brutalist object that reacts and changes through contact with the environment and the wearer.