Cuffs: a different sizing system

Cuffs do not have a clasp — they have an opening. Sizing them means measuring two things: total internal length (how much wrist circumference they cover) and gap (the open section that lets the cuff slide on).

• Total internal length: wrist circumference minus the gap. For a 17 cm wrist with a 3 cm gap, you need a cuff with 14 cm of internal length.
• Gap width: a gap of 2 to 3 cm fits most wrists. Wider gaps slide on more easily but slip off in normal motion. Narrower gaps need to be flexed open, which fatigues the metal over time.
• Bend tolerance: sterling silver flexes safely up to about 5% of its diameter, and beyond that the piece starts to deform. Do not bend a cuff repeatedly to put it on — adjust the gap once at the workshop instead.

Cuffs ride higher on the wrist than chain bracelets — closer to the bone, away from the hand. They are the easiest fit to get right because there is no clasp to pinch and no swinging length to manage.

Bangles: even simpler

Bangles slide over the hand, so the limit is hand size, not wrist size. Measure across the widest part of your hand — usually the knuckles when you tuck your thumb against the palm. The bangle's internal circumference needs to be 2 to 3 cm larger than this measurement, or it will not pass over the hand.

For most hands a 6.2 cm internal diameter works, and a 6.5 cm one works for larger hands. Once on, bangles are loose by design — the fit on the wrist is incidental.

Common sizing mistakes

Measuring with a too-tight tape

The most common mistake. People assume snug means accurate, but a tape pulled tight reads 3-5 mm short. The bracelet then arrives cutting into the skin, gets returned, and gets blamed on poor sizing. Measure with the tape touching skin without indenting it.

Sizing for a "just bought it" feeling

People often choose snug fit because the bracelet looks better in photos, and after two weeks of wear, the same piece feels claustrophobic. Standard fit is what most people end up wanting — order it first and you will rarely need to upsize.

Ignoring weight

A heavy bracelet (over 30 g) drops further on the wrist than a light one at the same length. For pieces over 30 g — common in cuffs, signets, and brutalist forms — go one length down from the standard chart, or the bracelet will hang too low and twist.

Sizing both wrists the same

Most people have one wrist 3-5 mm larger than the other. For watches it does not matter — they are worn on a chosen wrist. For bracelets you might rotate, measure both and order to the larger.

Sizing for stacking

Layering two or more bracelets on the same wrist needs extra calculation. The pieces do not stack neatly — they shift, overlap, and compete for wrist real estate. Three rules:

• Use the standard fit for the largest piece. This anchors the stack.
• Add 2.5 to 3 cm per additional bracelet. The smaller pieces need room to slide past each other without binding.
• Mix widths, not weights. Two heavy bracelets on the same wrist twist each other into knots, but one heavy plus two thin works.

For the visual logic of how stacks look balanced — chain plus cuff, oxidized plus polished — see our sterling silver jewelry guide, which covers proportion in detail.

Size is settled here. What kind of bracelet to size in the first place — the four constructions.