Types of chain weave: curb, figaro, anchor, bismarck and more
A chain weave is the pattern by which a chain is built: how the links are joined and turned. Curb, figaro, anchor, bismarck, rope — the most common. At STRUGA the chain runs not on a classic weave but on a link of its own.
What a weave is
A chain weave is the way the links connect: their shape, the number of rows, how they are turned. The same metal gives a different chain depending on the weave — soft or rigid, smooth or textured, light or massive. So a chain is chosen not only by thickness but by pattern: the weave sets the character.
A link can lie as it falls, or it can be twisted and locked into several rows. Hence the range: from a simple single-link chain to a dense multi-row bismarck.
The main types
- Anchor (mariner). Oval links with a cross-bar inside. The bar came from ships — it keeps the link from deforming under load, hence "anchor".
- Curb. Links twisted and flattened so they lie flat and interlock. The chain comes out smooth and dense, sitting close to the skin.
- Figaro. A curb pattern with links of alternating length. Named, like many Italian chains, after an opera — the barber of Seville.
- Bismarck. A dense multi-row weave of soldered links — the most massive and rigid. Heavy, holds its form, reads as volume.
- Rope. Links set in a spiral that reads as a twisted rope — dense but mobile.
How to choose
A weave is chosen by weight and character. Bismarck and curb hold mass — they are about volume on the neck or wrist. Anchor and rope are lighter, reading as a line. The denser the weave, the heavier and more present the chain; the simpler, the more mobile and quiet.
Thickness and weave work together: a thin bismarck is still dense, a thick anchor still breathes. So you look at both, not only at "how many grams".
Chains at STRUGA
STRUGA does not run a classic weave. Instead of curb or bismarck the brand makes a link of its own — large, cut on a machine: the BLADE family, STRUGA's signature chain architecture. Where a classic weave repeats a centuries-old pattern, BLADE sets the link as an object.
The silver is uncoated 925 — Living Silver: the edges of the link lighten with wear, the recesses between them go to graphite, and the chain's pattern reads sharper over time. Alongside it STRUGA has the Heart Lock clasp and perlin chains — again not a weave but a mechanism of joining of its own.
FAQ
What types of chain weave are there? The most common are anchor (links with a cross-bar), curb (twisted flat), figaro (curb with alternating link lengths), bismarck (dense multi-row) and rope (a twisted spiral). They differ in density, weight and how the chain sits.
Which weave is the strongest and most massive? Bismarck — the densest and heaviest, of soldered multi-row links. It holds its form and reads as volume. Curb is also dense but lies smoother.
How is anchor different from curb? Anchor links are oval with a cross-bar inside (a pattern from ships). Curb links are twisted and flattened to lie flat. Anchor "breathes", curb is smooth and dense.
What weave do STRUGA chains use? STRUGA does not use classic weaves. The brand makes its own large BLADE link, cut on a machine — its chain architecture. Plus the Heart Lock clasp and perlin chains.
Is there a silver chain without shine? Yes. At STRUGA it is Living Silver — uncoated 925: it darkens in the recesses of the link and lightens on the edges, so the chain does not shine evenly but lives by its relief.
