925 silver, 2.5 grams, surface darkened in advance. A small huggie ring sits close to the lobe; from a jump ring hangs the pendant — a silver cylinder with a bevelled lengthwise cut. A raw achroite comes out of the cut: a clear crystal with lengthwise striations, almost without colour. The stone is visible in full — no facets, no prongs. Worn in one ear. Family AMULET, Classic Amulet type, size S.
Material: 925 sterling silver, hand-finished — no rhodium plating.
World RITUAL, family AMULET, Classic type — a single raw stone in an open silver cylinder, no facets, no prongs.
Stone: achroite — the colourless variety of tourmaline. The name comes from the Greek achroos, "without colour": the crystal carries none of the colouring trace elements — no iron, no manganese, no copper.
Surface: black oxidation — the metal was darkened in advance, at the bench. It is a chosen finish, not a trace of time.
Price for article E-0530-S — Rp 2,850,000 (about US$160). This piece is sold; it was the only one.
A single earring worn in one ear. Care: warm water with a drop of mild soap and a soft brush, dried thoroughly. Silver-cleaning liquid and polishing cloths must not be used — they take off the surface itself.
AMULET — STRUGA earrings and necklaces built around raw, wild-growth stones. The amulets of this family differ widely — from quiet and classic, a Japanese reading of minimalism, to large and declarative. This is the Classic: an open silver cylinder holding one stone. The stone leads here, and the silver holds it without arguing with it. The family's other flagship model, Thorn, is larger and sharper.
The stone is an achroite, a colourless tourmaline: the same boron silicate as the pink and green stones of the family, only without the colouring trace elements. Iron, manganese and copper give tourmaline its colour; none of them are here, and the crystal reads as plain light. The variety is rare — clear colourless crystals are not often found. Tourmaline is 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, hard enough for daily wear. The wild-grown crystal is left uncut: the faces carry the lengthwise striations tourmaline grows with, the tip stayed a natural break, and close to the setting the stone turns to a barely visible green.
925 silver is 92.5% pure silver. What is dark on the surface is silver sulphide: sulphur blackens silver, and the darkness sits in the metal itself rather than on top of it. With a colourless stone this works hardest of all: the dark setting kills the background, and the clear crystal stays the only light place. Over time the piece does not go dull — it draws itself out: raised edges lighten with friction while the recesses stay dark. On earrings this runs slowest of all, because the ear is a quiet place. The depth of the finish can be brought back at the bench, and the piece does not need remaking for that.
How it is made: the silver cylinder is modelled — in 3D or by hand in wax. A silicone mould is taken from the model and the silver is cast. A master finishes the setting by hand, places the stone and darkens the surface. Handmade in Bali, Indonesia.
How the Classic differs from the Thorn in the AMULET family
| |
Classic Amulet — this earring |
Thorn Amulet |
| Form |
An even cylinder with a bevelled cut; the stone comes out of the cut |
A halved-torpedo form with a crystal grown inside; an homage to Daniel Arsham |
| Character |
Quiet and classic, a Japanese reading of minimalism |
Large and declarative |
| Weight by size |
2.5 g (S) · 3.9 g (M) · 5.5 g (L) |
3.5 g (S) · 5.0 g (M) · 5.9 g (L) |
| Stone |
Stands in an open cylinder, visible in full |
Seen in section, surrounded by silver |
| For whom |
Those who want one quiet object in the ear, every day |
Those who want a large, visible form — see THORN
|
Who it is for, and when it is worn
This earring is for someone who wears a single piece in one ear and does not collect a pair. Size S weighs 2.5 grams and is barely felt on the lobe: the ring closes tight, and the pendant swings freely without catching hair. A colourless stone behaves differently from a coloured one: it adds no tone but gathers the light around it — under a lamp it reads as a drop of glass, in sunlight it breaks into striations. The piece therefore sits the same way against black and against light clothing, and does not argue with other silver. It is worn every day, and it is worth taking off before a shower, a pool or a workout: chlorine and sweat work on a dark surface faster than time does. As a gift it lands with people who like a wild-grown stone and dislike matched pairs. This piece is sold — the achroite in it cannot be repeated, so an exact copy is impossible, but a custom order makes a close one in form, size and finish, with a crystal of its own. Dark objects from the same world that are ready to buy are in the THORN family; other one-of-one pieces are in the archive.
About STRUGA. STRUGA is a dark silver jewelry brand founded by Dmitry Strugovshchikov and Ekaterina Strugovshchikova, handcrafted in the Bali workshop by master silversmiths. Every piece is 925 sterling silver. Some objects are darkened in advance at the bench; others arrive light and darken on the wearer's hand. The darkening is part of the design. It is a brutalist object that reacts and changes through contact with the environment and the wearer.